While summer is typically the high season in the South of France, Fall is captivating. Slightly cooler weather adds a refreshing twist to your travel experience. One day, you are in shirtsleeves; the next, you need a puffy jacket as autumn arrives with little warning. In the Provencal countryside, fog often shrouds the mornings, slowly burning off as the sun rises. By the middle of October, the grape harvest is over, but farmers are still working; olives, squash, carrots, beets, turnips, and even saffron await their harvest.
Discover the Unique Autumn Vibes of Provence – Fall is bittersweet for me as warm days are far too many months away. However, as Tasha Powell shared in her seasonal menu, “Fall is when the real culinary magic happens with all the seasonal ingredients that Provence has to offer.” In case you missed it, her four-course dinner includes seasonal ingredients such as grapes, figs, squash, and pears. Bon appétit!
Early September often means the grape harvest is underway (or finished). If you see groups picking olives at this time of year, they are harvesting for olive cassées, not oil. School bells and construction noise replace the cicada’s summer symphony as everyone has returned from holidays. Azure September skies and lovely daytime temperatures bring the return of bike tour groups to the roads. September in Provence is a quieter time to visit the South of France, and the weather is generally lovely.
The Journées du Patrimoine occur on September 21 and 22, with open doors at national French monuments. This year’s theme – “Heritage of routes, networks and connections” and “Maritime heritage” – is an opportunity to explore those public and private spaces. Take advantage of free access and guided visits (note: booking is often required). Weather permitting, explore a private garden. Many open only a few times a year. Here is the official website.
Late August means the grape harvest starts soon (or is underway) in Provence. In Côtes du Rhone vineyards, this can only begin after the proclamation by the Grand Maître de la Commanderie at the Ban des Vendanges in Avignon on August 30 and 31, 2024. This festive wine-themed event is free to the public. If you are a Provencal rosé and beautiful photography fan, we recently reviewed The Book of Rosé about Château d’Esclans Vineyard and its Famous Wines.
The Camargue is a unique part of the region where the Rhône River meets the Mediterranean. When Sue Aran, the founder of French Country Adventures, takes her clients to this wild and wonderful part of Provence, and they stay in Hôtel Les Templiers, it’s so comfortable that it feels like home.
It’s Provence’s marshland. The Rhône River ends 800 kilometres from its glacial source in Valais, Switzerland, as it reaches the Mediterranean Sea. Like a wide yawn, the two branches of the Rhône – the Grande Rhône and the Petit Rhône – empty their watery cargo at the mouth of the river. This area of Provence known as the Camargue, part of the Bouches du Rhône (mouths of the Rhône), is Europe’s largest river delta (930 square km) and a wetland of significant size.
Horses of the Camargue
The white horse of the Camargue region is also quite an interesting story in that they effectively roam free from birth until the age of three. As yearlings, they are also branded with the owner’s brand; they are then separated from their mothers and set free into the marshes to grow and change colour. Unique to the breed is that they are born dark in colour, and as they mature at age 4 or 5, they attain the grey-white colour, which signifies the Camrague region horse. The horse tends to be large-limbed but small in stature, with enormous heads for their size and has a coat deemed grey/white when fully matured. At three years, they are finally corralled. At this point, they are neck reigned, making them easier to ride, as the rider or gardian should only need one hand to control them properly. Only the male horses are tamed and get broken in, while the mares are typically bred for reproduction.
Bulls of the Camargue
The Camargue bull is unique in that its environment largely shapes it. Jet black in part to deal with the region’s heat. The bulls live in herds called “manades,” Small in stature, its head and body are quite slight, but its horns are massive, they rise up straight pointed to the sky. The breed has never been able to be domesticated, the primary use for these animals is for bullfighting events. These bulls are bred to fight and work intermittently. Branding only occurs once the cows and bulls are yearlings, so North American branding techniques would be tough to follow. These bulls are for bullfighting, bull running (along “courses à la cocarde”), and other rituals. These bulls have become a symbolic representation of power and the strength of life, they have gained reverence and importance in the community as to reflect the heritage of times past.
At this point in the summer, tiny white snails often cling to vertical surfaces (plants, poles, signposts) in the countryside of Provence in the South of France. It took a friend to point out that while it might be hot, getting above ground level allows these creatures to survive the hottest weeks of the summer. So, the message to all of us is to slow down and enjoy the hot August days and nights in Provence. Here are some tips and articles about life in Provence in August.
A rainstorm often changes the seasonal temperatures around August 15th, a public holiday. As the days pass, the cicadas’ chanting seems to end overnight, leaving behind unusual quiet. Grapes in green, red, and purple shades grow plump and sweet, promising a bountiful harvest as the anticipation mounts in the vineyards.Here is a reference guide for the wine regions and wineries for those who enjoy Provencal wines.
Summertime in the South of France can be scorching. However, in the Alpilles, you can escape the heat and immerse yourself in a unique experience at Carrières de Lumières. This multimedia program, set to transport you to ancient Egypt in 2024, is a must-see. The Egypt of the Pharaohs projection is captivating – a blend of stunning photographs and animations from Cheops to Ramses II. Don’t miss this virtual journey; buy your tickets in advance.
Prepare for the excitement as the XXXIII Olympics kick off on July 26th in Paris. Sporting events are not limited to the French capital – they are happening at venues across the country and even as far as Tahiti (for surfing enthusiasts). There’s something for everyone, from football (soccer) matches in Marseille and Nice to sailing action at Roucas-Blanc Marina in Marseille. If you plan a trip to Paris, we’ve got you covered with these two excellent guides on the city’s art and architecture by Ruby Boukabou. Here is our book review.
A resident of Nice, France and local tour guide, Céline O’Donnell, has crafted a mouthwatering summer menu that truly reflects the traditional cuisine from that part of the French Riviera. Our new summer recipe collection is available for download. If you plan to visit Nice, here are our suggestions for the 10 must-see places in the city.
Summer “officially” starts for many French families around the middle of July. Bastille Day falls on July 14, and La Fête Nationale is a grand affair with festivities around the country. However, this day also marks the official start of the grandes vacances in France, so travel requires advanced planning and a little luck. Virginie shares the Bastille Day traditions in bilingual text here.
Festival season is well underway in the South of France, with hundreds of concerts, including a series in 40 vineyards. Head to Forcalquier for the annual weekend, July 26 – 29, when the artists’ studios are open to the public – Ateliers Ouverts. Read about the exhibitions and where to grab a bite to eat in Forcalquier.
The 2024 Tour de France is underway, with several stages taking place in the picturesque landscapes of Provence. This year, the race promises an exciting finish on the Promenade des Anglais in Nice on July 21. It’s a historic moment for the Tour de France, as it’s the first time the race will finish outside Paris. Enjoy this thrilling event and learn more about the Tour de France in Virginie’s bilingual article.
Summertime can be hot in the region when you might want to sample a cold beer from one of the many microbreweries. Cheers to making your way through this list.
Two sure signs are that summer has arrived in Provence – cicadas and music festivals. It can happen overnight; the cicadas start chanting as the temperatures rise. The solstice occurred on June 20th, but in France, it only feels like summer starts on June 21st when there is music in the streets throughout the country. La Fête de la Musique is an annual festival that began in 1982.
The Perfectly Provence 2024 summer menu has just been published, promising a culinary journey you won’t want to miss. Tour guide and native of Nice Céline O’Donnell selected dishes that will transport you to the French Riviera. From the classic Niçoise recipes – Pissaladière, Truccha, Salade Niçoise, and Tourte de Blettes to her personal favourites, this meal is a celebration of the region’s rich gastronomic heritage. We invite you to explore our Summer Recipe Collection for more seasonal ideas and prepare to embark on a culinary adventure.
At this time of the year, the poppy fields, now a delicate dusty pink, will soon be replaced by vibrant lavender and yellow sunflowers. Take the chance to savour the flavours of the season: asparagus, peas, purple artichokes, rhubarb, and strawberries. Download our Spring Menu Collection, a grouping of recipes that capture the essence of this time of year.
Early June weather is variable in the South of France, but wearing the proper layers is generally excellent weather for exploring on foot, by bike, or in a car. While there are fewer visitors, this is the time to discover these 10 villages in the Luberon. Rustrel is a gem as a base for holidays as it maintains an authentic feel all year yet is only a few minutes away from Apt. Head to Château La Coste before the end of the month to see the Damien Hirst exhibition “The Light that Shines.”
About Ginger & Nutmeg
Ginger and Nutmeg is a Food and Travel blog for Active Foodies hooked on travelling. We love food, history and digging into cultural traditions. This is a blog with a bit of humour, informative travel information and some great recipes.
Perfectly Provence provides a vast online resource for all things Provence, France. Whether you are about to travel to Provence or currently live their as a local or ex pat, we have curated the region’s best experts to bring you everything you need to know. Perfectly Provence is all about great regional cuisine, France travel tips, local markets and things to do in Provence. Bon Voyage!
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